Drum Brake Shoe

Choosing the right shoes

Brake shoes are specified by drum diameter and lining width, and Jeep used several sizes on the same model depending on the axle and year. The listings here cover 9 x 1.75 inch shoes for 1941 to 1953 Willys MB, CJ-2 and CJ-3, 9 inch front shoes for 1954 to 1971 CJ3, CJ5 and CJ6, 10 inch shoes for 1966 to 1971 CJ5, CJ6, Commando and Jeepster, 10 x 1.75 inch rear shoes for the Dana 44 on the 1991 to 2001 XJ and the AMC Model 20 on 1978 to 1989 CJ, Scrambler, XJ and YJ, 10 x 2.5 inch shoes for the Dana 44 on the 1986 to 1990 XJ and 1988 to 1995 YJ, and 9 x 2.5 inch shoes for the Dana 35 on the XJ, ZJ, YJ and TJ. Measure the old drum and lining before choosing; the model year alone is not enough on a Jeep that may have had an axle swap.

Shoe sets, lining sets and master kits

• Shoe set: four shoes with bonded or riveted lining, enough for one axle. Most listings here are sold this way.
• Shoe and lining kit: the same thing in Crown's naming for the older CJ and Willys applications.
• Lining with rivets: for very early Jeeps, bare lining to be riveted onto your existing shoe frames, as with the Omix-ADA 9 x 1.75 inch lining for the MB and CJ-2 and CJ-3. This is restoration work and needs the right rivets and a riveting tool.
• Master kit: shoes plus springs, hold-downs, adjusters and sometimes wheel cylinders, like the Crown master kits for 9 x 2.5 inch rear brakes on the 1990 to 1999 XJ, 1997 to 2000 TJ and 1990 to 1995 YJ. Buy a master kit if the hardware has never been replaced.
• Hold-down kit: pins, cups and springs for one wheel, needed whenever the old springs are tired or missing.

Lining material

Replacement shoes for these Jeeps come with organic or semi-metallic lining. Organic is quiet, gentle on drums and works well for the light rear brake duty on an XJ or TJ. Semi-metallic resists fade on heavy trucks and when towing but can be noisier and harder on drums. Match the lining type across both sides of the axle and do not mix brands on the same axle.

Signs the shoes are done

A long pedal that improves after pumping or after pulling the parking brake points to worn rear shoes and adjusters that have run out of travel. A grinding noise from the rear, a pull to one side under braking, or a parking brake that no longer holds on a hill are other clues. Pull a drum and look; lining should be above the rivet heads or at least a sixteenth of an inch thick on bonded shoes, with no cracks, glazing or oil contamination from a leaking axle seal.

Installing drum brake shoes

Work one side at a time so the other side stays as a reference for spring positions. Clean the backing plate, lubricate the shoe contact pads and adjuster threads with high-temperature brake grease, and install the primary shoe with the shorter lining toward the front of the vehicle. Replace springs, hold-downs and wheel cylinders if there is any doubt. Adjust until a slight drag is felt, back off a few clicks, and bed the new lining with a dozen gentle stops. Brakes are safety equipment; if you have not rebuilt drums before, have a professional do or check the work. Confirm fitment for your exact year, model and axle before choosing.