Control Arms

Why control arms matter on a lifted vehicle

When a vehicle is lifted, factory control arms often cannot return the axle or wheel to the correct position. That can cause poor alignment, wandering, vibration or running out of travel at the joints. Aftermarket arms restore alignment range and sometimes improve articulation. Short arms and drop brackets are common on mild lifts, while long arms are designed for taller lifts and offroad use.

How to choose

Start with the position you need: front or rear, upper or lower. Each is specific to the suspension layout, so an arm for a coil-spring solid axle Jeep is nothing like an upper arm for an independent front suspension truck. Then match the arm to your lift height range, shown in the listing, because the arm length and geometry are built for that window.

• Adjustable arms: Let you set caster or pinion angle, which is important after a lift.
• Fixed-length arms: Simple and strong, but they only fit the range they were designed for.
• Replacement arm with bushings: A good choice when factory bushings are worn out.

Specs to compare

Look at the joint design. Rubber or polyurethane bushings are quiet and forgiving, while heim or spherical joints give more articulation and need more maintenance and tolerate more noise. Ball joint designs on upper arms for independent front suspension trucks, including billet and tubular styles, are tied to the vehicle's steering geometry. Also check material, whether the kit includes bushings or hardware, and the stated lift range. Replacement joint kits are sold separately for rebuilding worn arms.

Installation notes and alignment

Control arms are a suspension and steering safety item. Torque bolts to the manufacturer's specifications with the vehicle at ride height, since tightening bushing bolts with the suspension hanging can bind the rubber and shorten its life. Install pairs rather than single arms, and have a professional alignment done after any arm change.

Check that the track bar, brake lines, sway bar links and driveline angles still work with your lift. Confirm fitment for your exact year, make, model, drivetrain and lift height, and follow the manufacturer's specifications for any additional parts required. Inspect joints and bolts regularly if the vehicle sees trail use.

Matching parts and common mistakes

Control arms rarely work alone. A lift that needs new arms often also needs a track bar, longer brake lines, sway bar disconnects or extended links, and shocks sized for the new travel. Plan the full list before starting so the vehicle is not left half finished. A set that includes the correct bushing sleeves and hardware saves a trip to find missing parts.

A common error is tightening arm bolts with the suspension at full droop, which preloads the bushings and can tear them within a short time. Another is mixing arms of different lengths side to side, which shifts the axle off center. Do not reuse stretched or damaged hardware, and use the grade of bolt the manufacturer requires.

For upkeep, inspect arms for bends, cracks near the welds and play in the joints. Grease any joints with fittings on the schedule listed. Listen for clunks over bumps, which often signal a loose bolt or a worn bushing. Recheck torque after the first few hundred miles, since bushings settle.