Fender Flare Hardware Kit

Why flare hardware matters

Fender flares are held on by a mix of screws, nuts, rivets, clips and brackets, and these small parts are often the first to go missing. Vibration, rust and body flex loosen them, and factory fasteners can break during removal. A flare that is loose can crack, rattle or pull away at highway speed. The parts in this category let you restore the original attachment rather than replacing the whole flare.

Fastener types you will see

• **Hardware kits.** Bags that gather the screws, nuts, clips and fasteners for one end of the vehicle. One listing, for example, includes U-clip nuts, push-in fasteners, nuts and screws. Kits are listed for front or rear.
• **Retainer brackets.** Brackets that hold a flare edge to the body, usually listed by side and position, such as right rear.
• **Retainers and push pins.** Plastic clips that snap into a body hole and secure trim or the lower flare edge.
• **Blind rivets and extension rivets.** Fasteners used for flare extensions, installed with a rivet tool from one side.
• **Nuts.** Individual black nuts and similar parts sold one at a time.

Choosing the right part

• **Position.** Check if the part is for the front or rear, and the driver or passenger side.
• **Original vs. aftermarket flares.** A listing may state that it is for original factory flares. Aftermarket flares often come with their own hardware, so match the part to the flare you have.
• **Quantity.** Some items are sold individually, and some in kits. Count how many fasteners you need before choosing.
• **Material.** Stainless or coated hardware resists corrosion better than plain steel, particularly where road salt is used.

Confirm fitment for your exact year, make, model and body style, and compare with the fasteners you removed. Part numbers on this site's pages can be compared with the manufacturer's specifications.

Installation tips

Clean rust and dirt from the mounting holes, and use rust-inhibiting paint on bare metal. Replace any bent or cracked brackets instead of reusing them. Do not overtighten plastic retainers or screws into thin sheet metal, since they can strip or crack the flare. A thread-locking compound on nuts, where the manufacturer permits it, helps hold them against vibration. Test fit the flare before the final tightening so the edge lines up evenly with the body. If a flare was drilled or riveted by a previous owner, take pictures before removal so you know how it went together.

To confirm which fasteners you need, count what is left on the vehicle and note their type, thread and length. Photograph the flare edges before removal. Measure screw length against the thickness of the flare and body panel so you do not drill through or leave the screw too short.

Related items include replacement flares, trim screws, washers, weatherstrip and touch-up paint. Common mistakes are mixing up front and rear hardware, overtightening into thin metal, and leaving bare metal around holes where rust starts. Use a rust converter or primer on any exposed edges, and consider stainless hardware if your area uses road salt. Check the flares a few times a year, especially after off-road use, since loose hardware lets the flare flex and crack. Replace broken retainers promptly so the flare does not rub against the tire.