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Clutch & Bellhousing Components

Clutch and bellhousing components cover the parts that connect a manual transmission to the engine and let you disengage drive. This category lists clutch kits, discs, pressure plates, flywheels, release bearings, slave cylinders and bellhousings, with Centerforce making up most listings alongside Jeep, Omix-Ada and Advance Adapters. Compare kits and part numbers on each product page, then compare the listings below.

Centerforce II clutch kit with disc and pressure plate

On a manual rig the clutch takes every hard launch, hill start and slow crawl over rock. When it slips, chatters or won't release, you lose control right where you need it most. This section covers the clutch itself plus the flywheel, release parts, linkage and bellhousing around it.

Clutch discs, pressure plates and dual friction sets are the biggest group, with full kits listed separately. Flywheels come in iron, steel and aluminum. The release side splits into hydraulic parts for later Jeeps, such as slave cylinders and stud nuts, and bellcrank linkage for older CJs. Pedal bushings, release bearings, bellhousings and adapters fill out the list. Match disc size and spline count to your engine and transmission.

Shop clutch and bellhousing parts
Sizes & fitment
98Parts listed
9Part types
7Brands
40Clutch listings
12Flywheel listings
7.5–11"Clutch sizes listed

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Popular clutch parts

Clutch sizing and fitment reference

Sizes and Jeep fitment taken from listings in this category, plus how the flywheel and release options compare. Use them to narrow your search, then confirm the part number for your engine and transmission.

Sizes stated on listings

Centerforce 384193 clutch disc10.4" x 1-1/8"-10 spline
Centerforce CFT361890 pressure plate10.4" diameter
Centerforce DF512009 disc and plate7.5", 18-spline x 0.75", 1.3L engine
Crown 3184867K clutch kit11", plate, disc and release bearing
Centerforce 700474 steel flywheel147 teeth, 29 lb, counterbalanced

Jeep fitment on listings

Centerforce N1491 release bearing1968–84 J-series, CJ, SJ, Scrambler
Centerforce N1764 release bearing1994–2002 Wrangler, 1994–95 XJ
Crown 53008342 release bearingYJ, TJ, LJ, JK, XJ, ZJ, KJ
Crown 52000070 slave cylinder1983–86 CJ7, 1984–86 XJ
Crown J3225981 pedal bushing1984–96 XJ, 1993–96 ZJ
Crown 4446361 pedal bushing (2 needed)1998–2006 TJ, 1993–98 ZJ, 1999–2001 XJ
Crown 52010309AB pedal bushing2007–2018 JK

Flywheel materials

IronSteelAluminum
WeightHeavyHeavyLightest
Low-speed crawlingSmooth, carries momentumSmooth, carries momentumNeeds more throttle
Engine responseSlower revvingSlower revvingQuicker revving
Examples hereCenterforce 400472Centerforce 700120, 700144Centerforce 900270

Release systems

Bellcrank linkageHydraulic
How it worksRods and a bellcrank to the forkMaster and slave cylinder
Jeeps in these listingsCJ5, CJ6, CJ7, ScramblerSome 1983–86 CJ, XJ and later
Wear partsBellcrank, pivot studs, bootsCylinders, pivots, stud nuts
Common symptomsSlack, binding, worn bushingsSpongy or sinking pedal

Clutch parts vary by engine, transmission and year even within one model. Confirm disc diameter, spline count and release bearing type against your part number before ordering.

All Clutch & Bellhousing Components 98 parts

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How the clutch system works

In a manual-transmission vehicle the clutch sits between the engine and the gearbox. A disc with friction material is clamped to the flywheel by a pressure plate to transmit torque, and the release bearing and hydraulic or mechanical linkage withdraw the plate when you press the pedal. The bellhousing encloses the assembly and bolts the transmission to the engine. Wear in any of these parts shows up as slipping, chatter, a hard pedal or trouble getting into gear.

Parts in this category

  • Clutch kits: typically a disc, pressure plate and release bearing, sometimes with an alignment tool.
  • Disc and pressure plate sets: including dual-friction designs for added grip.
  • Flywheels: steel or lightweight units that the disc rubs against.
  • Hydraulics: slave and master cylinders, plus hardware such as stud nuts.
  • Bellhousings and adapters: used when pairing a different engine and transmission.

Choosing a clutch

Match the clutch to the engine's torque and how you drive. A stock-style kit is quiet and has a light pedal, which suits a street-driven vehicle. Higher-clamp or dual-friction clutches hold more torque and are favored by heavily modified or towing vehicles, but they usually have a stiffer pedal and can be noisier or grabbier. Off-roaders often want smooth engagement for low-speed crawling, so consider the engagement feel as well as capacity. Check the flywheel and pilot bearing at the same time.

Replace related parts together

Because a transmission must be removed to reach the clutch, it makes sense to replace the release bearing, pilot bearing, rear main seal if it leaks and the slave cylinder if it is worn. Inspect and resurface or replace the flywheel, since a glazed or scored surface will ruin a new disc.

Installation and fitment

Use an alignment tool to center the disc, and torque the pressure plate bolts evenly in a star pattern to the specified value. Bleed hydraulic systems according to the service manual. Confirm fitment for your exact engine, transmission and bellhousing type, and compare the part number to the manufacturer's specifications. This is a heavy, labor-intensive job and professional installation is a reasonable choice.

Break-in and driving habits determine how long a new clutch lasts. Follow the manufacturer's break-in guidance, which often calls for a few hundred miles of gentle driving with no heavy towing or hard launches, so the friction surfaces seat properly. Avoid riding the clutch pedal or holding the vehicle on a hill with the clutch, because slipping generates heat that glazes the disc and warps the flywheel. Off-road, avoid slow slipping at high throttle when a lower gear would do the job.

Check the pedal and hydraulic system after installation. The pedal should have a firm engagement point and return smoothly. A spongy pedal means air in the hydraulic line, and a pedal that sinks suggests a leaking master or slave cylinder. Make sure the pedal free play meets the specification where the system uses a cable or adjustable linkage. If you are changing the transmission or engine pairing, confirm the bellhousing bolt pattern, the pilot bearing size, the input shaft spline count and the flywheel bolt pattern, since these vary widely between engines and transmissions. Torque specifications are essential for safe, vibration-free operation.

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Clutch & Bellhousing Components FAQ

How do I know my clutch is worn?

Common signs include slipping under load, a pedal that engages very high or low, chatter, a burning smell and difficulty shifting. A shop can measure wear and check hydraulics to confirm the cause.

Should I replace the flywheel with the clutch?

It is wise to inspect it every time. A flywheel that is glazed, scored or heat-cracked should be resurfaced or replaced, because a new disc will not last on a damaged surface.

What is the difference between a clutch kit and a disc and plate set?

A kit usually includes the release bearing and often an alignment tool in addition to the disc and plate. A plate and disc set omits some of those parts. Check the contents on the product page.

Will a stronger clutch make my pedal stiffer?

Generally yes. Higher clamp load increases pedal effort and can make engagement more abrupt. Choose a capacity that matches your engine power and use rather than the strongest available.